Tag Archive for: SPF

As wonderful as summer can be (thanks to longer days, trips to the beach and pool, and lighter brighter vibes in general), it’s not necessarily ideal as far as our skin is concerned. After all, exposure to UV rays is the leading cause of visible signs of aging—not to mention it can lead to some pretty serious hazards for skin and overall health. In search of intel and solutions to save our skin all summer long and 365 days a year, we tapped celebrity esthetician and Goldfaden MD’s Educational Advisor Gina Mari. Heed her advice on all things sun safety and skin repair. Plus: helpful FYIs on the ingredients you’ll want in your skincare routine, ASAP.

What is the biggest misconception people have about sun safety?

That you only have to apply sunscreen once in the morning and then you’re good for the rest of the day. We have been educating people on the proper use and application of sunscreen for years now and it still amazes me when a client comes in literally fried and says, “But I put it on this morning!”

What skincare ingredients can heighten photosensitivity and what are your tips for using them in the summer months?

Products that contain ingredients such as retinoids, vitamin C, alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids and benzoyl peroxide will definitely make your skin much more sensitive to sun exposure. As opposed to discontinuing the use of these ingredients, simply lower the percentages that you’re using creating an overall milder formula for your skin. And, I would suggest only using your actives at night.

What skincare ingredients can help minimize sun damage, whether immediately or more long term?

Several ingredients listed above are extremely effective. Additionally, niacinamide, kojic acid, azelic acid and hydroquinone have proven great results. Consistency with the use of whichever combination or stand-alone ingredient your product/products contain is key. As all of these ingredients work to exfoliate and resurface (even if it’s the slightest amount) so applying a hydrating product with ingredients such as alpha lipid acids, hyaluronic acid and ceramides will really help speed the healing process as well as help you maintain results.

Direct sun exposure aside, what are the surprising culprits that can wreak havoc on your skin in the warmer months?

Skin, hair and nails are really affected by basically sun, salt and sand! We all need to enjoy our lives and a little vitamin D is good for you. Protect your skin during the daytime and focus on repairing and restoring in the evening.

What is one thing you wish everyone would do (or not do) in terms of sun exposure and skin health?

Using and reapplying sunscreen as suggested is great and there are some really cool sun-protecting clothing items such as hats, swim shirts, etc. that really assist with additional protection. Essentially we want to protect and renew our skin every day and that will lead to healthy-looking skin.

Do you have a go-to hack to reduce post-sun skin sensitivity?

Really take extra care with cool baths and soothing products that contain ingredients like aloe vera. Please, please, please, don’t scratch or peel the burnt areas…that will extend your healing time.

ABOUT GINA MARI

Gina Marí is a skincare expert with a unique approach to skin renewal and preservation. She was named “Top Celebrity Facialist in Los Angeles” by Allure Magazine and works with a list of high-profile, A-list clientele who know her as meticulous, compassionate and forward-thinking. Gina curates skincare programs for her clients, designed for both immediate results and long-term maintenance to improve the health and vitality of the skin “Seeing my clients happy, glowing and confident is a gift that constantly inspires and motivates me,” she says. Immersed in the developing science of skincare, Gina conducts advanced research and utilizes cutting-edge technologies in her skincare programs, constantly discovering new treatments to help her clients with their individual skincare concerns and goals.

 

With so many conflicting messages about sunscreen types, numbers and ingredients we went straight to the expert on all things sun and skin safety to find out what Dermatologist, Dr. Gary Goldfaden MD recommends for everyone. 

Physical sunscreens create a barrier on the skin that filter out UV rays, while chemical sunscreens absorb and scatter the sun’s harsh UV rays. Discover the 411 on Sun Screen breakdown.

What is a physical sunscreen? 

A physical sunscreen contains physical blocking ingredients such as Zinc or Titanium oxide. Both of these ingredients sit on the surface of the skin creating a protective barrier from UVA and UVB rays and deflect and scatter damaging UV rays away from the skin. They are white in color and work immediately on application. Another type of Physical block can be clothing. 

What is chemical sunscreen?

Chemical sunscreens have to be absorbed into the skin and then they are able to absorb the UV ray. Common chemical sunscreens are made up of ingredients such as oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate and avobenzone which create a chemical reaction and work by changing UV rays into heat.  

According to Refinery 29, “Chemical ingredients absorb rays instead of deflecting them, and are much lighter on the skin, so they’ve become the more popular pick for brands to formulate around in an effort to make sunscreen people will actually wear. The only problem is that now, years after they were introduced, we’re realising they might not be so safe.The main concern is on oxybenzone and octinoxate, two of the most common sunscreen ingredients that are also toxic for corals. We need the world’s reefs for coastal protection, food, ocean habitats, medicine, and so much more, but experts estimate that 90% of all reefs will be dead by 2050, and sunscreen could play a huge part in that on top of climate change and other stressors. But simply cutting back on chemical sunscreen won’t help — we must completely remove it from the market to see real change. That’s because one study found oxybenzone had a toxic effect on coral at a concentration equivalent to one drop in six and a half olympic-sized swimming pools.

PHOTO: ALEXIS ROSENFELD/GETTY IMAGES. 
Two live corals are pictured in front of bleached white, dying corals. Experts warn that on our current path, 90% of all reefs will be dead by 2050.

Hawaii governor David Ige responded to these startling facts last year by signing a bill banning the sale of oxybenzone and octinoxate, but Felton notes that others, like avobenzone, could be just as dangerous. “We don’t know,” she says. Key West in Florida and the island nation of Palau have followed, and more states, especially California, are likely soon ban the sale of oxybenzone and octinoxate as well.”

Chemical versus physical sunscreen:  

A physical sunscreen is always better than chemical. Chemical sunscreens, due to the nature of having to be absorbed into the skin, can interact and cause irritation, rashes or clogged pores. Another downside to a chemical sunscreen is that the sun has to actually touch and reach the skin, whereas a physical sunscreen is blocking the UV rays from ever touching the skin.

How do we choose?

This is really a personal choice but I always think the more natural the better. You can base this decision on what works best for your skin type and/or your level of health concerns. The best advice for sensitive skin types, who are worried about clogged pores and rashes, would be to patch test a few different types of physical sunscreens as these sit on the surface of the skin and do not penetrate. Remember that clothing is also considered a physical blocker. If you must go in the sun protective clothing, hats and glasses are all recommended in addition to wearing sunscreen. 

How much is enough?

The SPF number represents how long it would take the sun’s UV rays to start to burn your skin if you weren’t wearing any sunscreen. So for example, if you’re wearing a 30 SPF, it would take you 30 times longer to burn than if you weren’t wearing SPF. This is also dependent on your skin tone(melanin) and sensitivity to the sun. A good rule of thumb is to reapply every 30 minutes when in direct sun or after being in the water. However, if you’re very fair and or burn easily consider wearing a higher SPF number and applying more frequently as well as wearing protective clothing.

Discover some of our favorite natural sunscreens from Credo. Stay safe in the sun and Happy Summer!

Hyper-pigmentation is one of the most common complaints from women. Did you know that it is not only caused and activated by the sun but also by heat? This alarming truth is one of the reasons hyper-pigmentation and dark spots are so stubborn and challenging to get rid of.

So what actually happens?

Patches of skin become darker in color due to excessive melanin, the pigment that produces skin color. Types of hyperpigmentation include sunspots, which result from cumulative sun exposure; melasma, which arises primarily in women due to hormonal causes; and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which arises from an injury or insult to the skin. While these conditions are conventionally treated with toxic topical agents such as hydroquinone, natural agents may also be helpful in managing them.

“Plant-derived agents such as alpha arbutin, kojic acid and birds of paradise have been found to be beneficial in lightening the appearance of the skin and evening its coloration,” says Dr. G!

Heat is also a culprit! Heat whether outside or inside increases vasodilation, which is the dilation or widening of blood vessels. This causes more redness to appear, particularly in areas of melasma. Heat can also lead to inflammation and stimulate melanocyte pigment production. While UV sources like the sun are defiantly enemy number one, there are many other triggers. Hyper-pigmentation can occur from heat sources like overhead LED lights, a BBQ grill, a hairdryer or the temperature in a hot yoga class. Wearing an SPF daily along with an environmental anti-pollution serum and dark spot corrective treatment will help combat many of these.

How to properly protect and treat:

The Best Thing You Can Do For Your Skin: The process of exfoliation is a lot like peeling away the dry, outer skin of an onion to reveal the living layers beneath. Whether the exfoliation is done using mechanical abrasion or a controlled chemical reaction, removing dead and damaged skin cells on the surface allows the fresh new skin underneath to become visible. This newly exposed layer of skin feels much softer and smoother. Its surface reflects light better, making fine lines and other small imperfections harder to see. Age spots and other areas of unwanted pigmentation are less noticeable because the dead skin cells containing the pigment have been removed. Exfoliation unplugs clogged pores and allows for the release of natural skin oils. Regular exfoliation also helps to maintain open pores, decreases pore size, and minimizes many types of superficial scarring. In addition, removing the top layer of dead and damaged cells allows other health-promoting agents such as moisturizers, antioxidants, and collagen-boosting ingredients to better penetrate the skin and work more effectively.

As a bodyguard:

Not only does your skin shield your insides from ultraviolet radiation and other forms of physical damage, it also carries a powerful defense system that seeks out and destroys any foreign invaders that manage to get through. When you consider that every square inch of your skin can be covered with millions of micro-organisms, you can understand how vital this is.

Look at your skin as “in defense” during the day. Integrate antioxidants into your AM regimen.

The nutrient, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of the polyphenols found in antioxidants that span across tea, fruit, plant derivatives, have been scientifically proven to combat the effects of photo-aging.  Cumulative exposure to the ultraviolet rays of the sun produces free radicals that can damage the sensitive lipids, proteins and DNA in your skin cells. This UV-induced damage to your skin can result in gradual loss of tone, wrinkling, discoloration, increased redness, and even cancer. Topical treatment with antioxidants has been shown to help prevent the DNA damage that leads to skin cancer and to support the general health and long-lasting beauty of your skin.

Dr. Goldfaden’s advanced brightening and antioxidant serum help aid against the appearance of photoaging and free radical damage while leaving skin feeling hydrated and looking radiant. Stay protected.

Don’t forget SPF. Here are some of our clean favorites from Credo Beauty.