Tag Archive for: Glycolic

The Who, What, Why, When of AHA + BHA Acids

What

Both AHAs and BHAs chemical exfoliators work by combining with the structural lipids in the stratum corneum (aka skin) and dissolving them so that the dead skin cells break away. This is just a fancy was of explaining their very efficient exfoliation method and why they’re an encouraged addition to any healthy skincare regimen.

Who

Alpha Hydroxy Acid or AHA (which are Lactic acid, Glycolic acid and the Fruit acids) is used as a facial exfoliator and is an excellent choice for people with sun damaged skin, aging skin and normal to dry skin types. AHA does not cause sun sensitivity and comes in many forms. AHA’s come in the form of lactic acid which is derived from milk, glycolic acid which is derived from sugarcane and fruit acids which are derived from fruits (citrus and apples/malic acid). AHA can also aid in thickening the lower layers of the skin thus delivering firmness.

Beta Hydroxy Acid or BHA (also called salicylic acid) comes from acetylsalicylic acid which is the same source as aspirin. In general, beta hydroxy acid is a more effective treatment for acne prone skin. BHA also can cause sun sensitivity and must always be used in conjunction with a sunscreen.

Why

  • They’re both powerhouse ingredients!
  • Both get rid of the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
  • Both make skin appear smoother and tighter
  • Both make skin look more even in texture
  • Improve scarring
  • Improve appearance of photo-aged skin
  • Both hydrate and exfoliate the skin

Well said from Paula’s Choice: “AHAs and BHA are different, and their different properties make one or the other preferred for different skin types”:

  • AHAs are water soluble and are preferred for normal to dry, sun-damaged skin due to their ability to enhance natural moisturizing factors within skin.
  • BHA is oil soluble and preferred for normal to oily, clog-prone and bump-prone skin, and enlarged pores, and can clear pores deeply, even those with hard, tiny, white bumps on the cheeks and face. BHA is even suitable for those prone to milia.
  • AHAs and BHA work on skin’s surface; but BHA also works inside the pore lining, where clogs begin.
  • BHA has natural skin-calming properties, which make it preferred for sensitive, redness-prone skin. It’s great for sensitive skin, even for those with rosacea.”

When

  1. AM/PM: try one in the morning and one at night. If you’re targeting a skin issue then doubling down can be effective. Make sure to always hydrate your skin properly and pay attention to warning signs such as redness or red or dryness.
  2. Alternate days: Try AHA on day and then BHA a few days later. Listen to your skin and you’ll never go wrong!
  3. Spot treat: If you have combo skin, try using BHA only in t-zone or oily areas while using AHA everywhere else.
  4. Know your limits-not everyone needs both and if you’re particularly sensitive and NOT acne prone then stick to AHAs.

Dr. G recommends: (BHA’s) Fresh A Peel + Detox Hydrating Gel, (hybrid of AHA and BHA) Skin Balancing Mask, (AHA) Detox Clarifying Facial Wash.

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Pore refinement ingredients + products

Exfoliation is key to a refined complexion. Both physical (scrubs) and chemical (peels + acids) will get the job completed-the choice is yours. Any type of exfoliation will help pore size, by removing dead dry skin cells, pollution, bacteria and signs sun damage the skin’s surface will appear smoother, brighter, more even and less wrinkled. After proper and continues exfoliation, choosing a treatment product is imperative to refined pores. Powerhouse ingredients such as Ferulic Acid and Vitamin C must be incorporated into a healthy daily regimen.

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Exfoliation types for Pore Refinement

 Chemical exfoliators

Chemical exfoliation uses acids or enzymes to remove dead skin cells

Alpha-hydroxy acids target fine lines, irregular pigmentation, and age spots, while exfoliating and promoting collagen production

  • Glycolic: reduces visible signs of aging
  • Lactic: exfoliates, reduces appearance of hyperpigmentation + draws moisture to skin surface
  • Tartaric: helps reduce appearance of fine lines + wrinkles
  • Malic: promotes collagen production + reduces signs of aging
  • Citric acids: exfoliates + expedites new cell turnover

Beta-Hydroxy Acid

  • Salicylic Acid:  good for Acne prone skin, exfoliation and improves skin’s texture and color.

Manual + Physical exfoliators

Physical exfoliation utilizes a hard substance to manually remove the dead skin cells–think microdermabrasion

  • Ruby crystals-perfectly round so they provide an even exfoliation and they do not cause tearing to the surface of skin

 Ingredients for Pore Refinement

Vitamin C and Retinol as they both stimulate cell renewal and collagen production, which will firm up the connective tissue around the pores making them become + appear smaller.

Hyaluronic

Acid helps to bind moisture to the skin and fill fine lines and wrinkles, making pores appear smaller.

DMAE provides firmness and helps give a lifted appearance

Feruilc Acid fights free radical damage and is an extremely potent anti-oxidant. On par with SOD

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What you need based on your skin type

Oily/Acne: Doctors Scrub Advanced or Fresh A Peel + Brightening Elixir

Oily and Acne skin types need to wash and often due to the excess oil production. Doctors Scrub Advanced offers a deep exfoliation along with Hyaluronic acid for a tight and smooth finish. Fresh A Peel can be used 1-2 a week for an overall glow or if you are trying to target acne scars or dark spots. To treat and reverse signs of aging, use our newest serum Brightening Elixir which contains Ferulic acid, Vitamin C, Vitamin B and Vitamin E.

Red or sensitive skin Fresh-A-Peel, Radical Difference, Fleuressence Oil

A chemical Lactic acid based peel is perfect for sensitive or reactive skin (NO scrubbing involved). Physical scrubbing can aggravate sensitive skin and induce redness. Radical Difference serum soothes agitated skin and quells redness and inflammation. Fleuressence oil brightens, help rebuild collagen with Vitamin A and provides skin with essential fatty acids for hydration.

Dry

Doctors Scrub or Fresh A Peel, Brightening Elixir, Fleuressence Oil

The hydrating emollients and Hyaluronic acid in Doctors Scrub, will

keep your skin hydrated and supple. The main ingredient in Fresh A Peel is Lactic acid, which is derived from milk. Lactic acid actually helps to pull moisture to the surface of the skin as well as attacking hyperpigmentation and dark spots. Seal and reverse signs of aging with Brightening Elixir followed by Fleuressence Oil for maximum hydration and brightness.

Normal/Combo

Fresh-A-Peel or Doctors Scrub, Brightening Elixir, Wake Up Call

Doctors Scrub is exfoliating and hydrating enough to use a 3-4 times a week. Fresh-A Peel can be added in once week for that over red carpet glow!

Reverse damaged skin with Brightening Elixir followed by Wake Up Call for a dose of DMAE and Retinol.

 

 

 

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Natural summer skin + nails + hair

Summertime means more time outdoors in the sun, water and heat. Taking sun safe precautions is the most important step but what about easing up on all the beauty treatments that can cause annoyance and waste time during summer months. Skin, hair and nails all need a break and summertime is the best time to utilize warm temperatures and humidity.

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As skin regimens change in the winter they also need to be adjusted for the summer. If you live in an area with high humidity ease up on the heavy moisturizers and protective oils. Heavy hydrating products can cause clogged pores and breakouts during warm months. Try transitioning into a hydrating serum that contains lightening agents like Alpha Arbutin or Kojic Acid. Not only will this eliminate one step from your regimen but a treatment serum can also help to protect and reverse sun damage and dark spots. Botanical oils and dry oils can also serve the purpose of a serum, treatment and moisturizer in one. Oils should never contain Dimethicone (can clog pores) so read the ingredients before purchasing.

Easing up on exfoliation during the summer can be beneficial for the skin too. Although important in a healthy skin regimen, exfoliation whether physical or chemical may cause redness and irritation if overdoing. Ditch the acid wipes and pads and try a gentle lactic acid mask once a week. Lactic acid is particularly appropriate for sun damaged skin, dark spots and Hyper pigmentation. Lactic acid molecules are larger than Glycolic molecules so they don’t go as deep as fast, therefore targeting the top layers of the skin (where the darkness appears). Scrubs can take a back seat during the summer too. Over scrubbing can make skin red and dry especially if skin has been exposed to the sun or sea. Save scrubbing for a few times a week ( if needed) and focus more on finding a refreshing, rejuvenating cleanser that gets the skin clean. Gel based cleansers that are formulated without harsh chemicals are the best for summertime.

Gel nails look amazing but they really can cause damage to the nail bed and cuticles. After just a few months of continuous gel manicures, nails are left soft, thin and peeling-usually breaking off after the gel is removed and then not reapplied. Try keeping the nails short by cutting them often which will allow new healthy nail to grow. Always use a hand lotion or nail oil (vitamin E) to moisturize the nail bed and cuticles. Nails are made up of the protein Keratin, try soaking in milk, which has protein and whitening properties.

Over shampooing, coloring and styling-tool use can dry and frizz hair. During the summer the temperatures are high enough and if you happen to live in hot and humid weather you can kiss that blow out goodbye. Try skipping the hair dryer and opting for a damp lose braid. After washing make sure all the water is towel dried out of the hair. If you have curly, frizzy or wavy hair use an anti-humidity product or a keratin based product. Braid hair to the side very loosely and let dry. Humidity can be your friend if using the correct products. You’ll look beach ready in no time. If you have flat or straight hair try a salt or beach spray. Apply using the same steps.

Nothing is more beautiful than being natural Happy summer!

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